- Batiks are a tighter weave and provide slightly better protection than two layers of a tightly woven printed cotton, https://www.chicagotribune.com/coronavirus/sns-nyt-best-material-coronavirus-mask-20200408-pga45pinvfgpvpdo6pei4nm6ze-story.html
- Not all cotton weaves are created equal. Our cottons start at 240 thread count and go up to 320, many box store brands are 160 thread count for their premium fabrics (buy a yard of each, wash it and weigh it and you'll see for yourself). Looser weave is a less effective mask.
- Paper towel as a "filter" has been tested and found to be less than optimal, test results can be seen here: https://smartairfilters.com/en/blog/paper-towel-effective-against-viruses-diy-mask/ the same holds true for tissues and coffee filters. For a short time the CDC had a bandana pattern that include a coffee filter to compensate for the loose weave of the bandana, this is an alternative to two layers of high quality cotton.
- Polypropylene as a filter is the same fabric (different weave and thickness) as used in an N95 mask and offers greater filtration, non-woven is the best for catching Covid. You can get Polypropylene interfacing or embroidery stabilizers that will work.
-Fusible interfacings have gained popularity as a filter layer, keep in mind that the glue once adhered will create a layer of glue that you now have to breath through. This will make the mask difficult to use, also fusible interfacing can come away from the fabric when placed in a hot dryer so you still need to top stitch it in place. Only cut-away interfacing should be considered, but most look to add no more filtration than you would get with another layer of fabric. 
- Make masks in different sizes so you get a better fit, the better the seal around the face the better the protection it offers
- Pleated masks fit a wide variety of face shapes and facial hair, but they are harder on your machine. If your machine has trouble sewing over the pleats consider a two part curved front pattern like the one available at freesewing.org, this is much easier on your machine.
- Ties also allow for a better fit on a wider range of faces.
- Elastic ear loops make it quick and easy to put a mask on but if not sized to the face you get gaps that make the mask less effective
- Multi-piece mask patterns provide for a better fit but must be sized to the face; you get a mask much more similar to an N95 mask shape when you use the multi piece pattern.
- Nose wires, or nose bridges, help generic pleated masks stay in place and fit better. Choose a wire that can withstand washing, pipe cleaners poke through the fabric after a few washings. Tomato wire or aluminum nose bridges will stay in place much better and withstand washing.

There is a lot of information out there, I tend to defer to what is on the hospital and CDC websites. I recommend staying away from sponsored sites and those trying to sell you a product. Get the facts and then make your own decision.  If you see a recommendation for a product check with the manufacturer and see what they say. For example Hoover says do NOT use their vacuum bags in face masks they are not safe to breath through. Dupont says not to use their Tyvek but you can use Xavan as a filter. The info is out there, I suggest you do the research before using any product you don't really know in your face masks.

For more information, check out the CDC website: https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/downloads/cloth-face-coverings-information.pdf

So I recently got in some cork fabric and faux leather to give them a try. 

To get started I picked up some nice quilt shop quality pieces and then ordered some online pieces to compare. Yes, there were differences....what did I see:

- Online cork specifically states it can NOT be washed and should be used for dry applications
- Online cork comes in a wide range of "finishes" with colors and metallic embellishments; though you may have to buy a big pack of finishes you don't want, just to get the one sheet you do want
- Online cork backing fabric is a looser weave giving the piece less structure
- Online cork can be seen through when held up to the light
- Online faux leather had a nice texture and great selection of colors; quilt shop colors were a bit more limited
- Online faux leather was significantly thinner and required stabilization to keep shape

The thinner pieces from the online purchases still looked nice, but to use them I found I had to back them to make them stable enough to use in a project without fear of falling apart. I am still concerned about the online cork since it says that it can't be washed, I spritzed it with some water to make sure the glue holding the pieces to the fabric backing did not fall out, and so far so good - though I have to admit that I had already glued a backing fabric to the back of the cork before testing with water.  When I fold the online cork it feels like the pieces are going to pull away from the backing, they haven't so maybe it will work out. I'll have to update you after I have played with it longer.

I mixed and matched some of the cork finishes in my project and it did add a nice appeal to final project. I didn't think I would like the cork with the colors sprinkled in it, but they added a nice attractive look when combined with a cotton lining fabric that helped to bring out the highlights in the cork. My preference on the leather was still towards the more muted tones, I felt the heavily colored online faux leathers just looked a bit too faux for my taste, but you might find them appealing.

The advantages of the cork and faux leather are the easy of use and the prices as compared to real leather. Though expensive compared to a cotton fabric, you don't usually need a large piece and it is sold in small sheets so you can get just what you need to make your project without breaking the bank. The embroidery machine handles these fabrics wonderfully and the results look amazing. You can use them for small projects or add them to a larger project for that high end look.  It is worth giving them a try. If you decide to start cheap with some online purchases, keep in mind that if you have issues with them, just try the thicker/nicer stuff from your local quilt/sew shop and you may find that for just a tad more money you get the quality results you are after. 

Supplies:
- cork fabric (1) 4" x 10 1/2", (2) 2 1/2" x 3", (2) 1" x 2 1/2"
- Fabric (rip stop works well) 4" x 10 1/2"
- Glue (steam-a-seam, spray glue, fabric safe flexible Alene's glue)
- Thread, contrasting color looks nice
Optional: Fray Check (or other seam sealant)

Directions:
1) Glue/fuse the fabric to the back of the 4" x 10 1/2" cork. Test your iron on your cork, too much heat will cause it to roll, too much steam can cause the glue that holds the cork to the backing fabric to let go. Use a permanent adhesive. 
2) Fold the 1" binding strips in half and place them along the 2 1/2" top edge of the two 2 1/2" x 3" cork pieces.
3) Top stitch binding pieces in place along the bottom edge of the binding strip, back tack both ends to complete the credit card sleeves..
4) Place the credit card sleeves on opposite ends of the main wallet. Place the sleeves right side up on the right side of the main wallet I recommend Wonder Clips to hold the pieces in place for sewing.
5) Starting at the top edge of the wallet sew down the short edge, pivot at the bottom and continue to sew following the edge of the credit card sleeve. I reinforced the stitching at the top edges of the sleeve with back-tacks to increase durability. Repeat on the other end for the second sleeve.
6) Fold in the end of the wallet along the outside edge of the sleeve (not the stitch line but the edge of the sleeve fabric). Repeat for both ends. There should be about a 1/2" gap in the middle where the backing fabric is visible.
7) Sew along the top edge of the wallet, add a back-tack in the middle to reinforce the edges where the bills go, and repeat for the bottom edge. Where there are already stitch lines from sewing on the sleeves, try to stay on the same line for a cleaner finish.
8) Fold your wallet in the middle and trim any excess cork from the sleeves that may be visible when the wallet is folded. If necessary (depending on the quality of your cork and choice of lining) add a bead of seam sealant (like Fray Check) to the raw edges of the project.

My sample is on the left, the ones one the right were may by some of our summer campers.  This is design for the bills to be folded in half and inserted on either side of the wallet. The money pockets are about 1/4" shorter than the folded bill so the bill sticks out just enough for you to pull it out without having to manhandle the wallet to get at the bills. The credit card sleeves are wide enough for a few credit cards to be placed on each side.  You can use any extra backing fabric to make a small change purse to slide in one of the bill pockets if you want to keep change in your wallet.

Hope you have fun making these. They are quick and easy. I used stitch witchery to hold in my lining of rip stop since it had such a low melting point; this way I didn't ruin the rip stop with too much heat.

Jill

 You probably already have a few pillows out, so measure them and make new pillow cases to cover them for the holidays. If you line your pillow case with some batting it will cover the texture of the pillow underneath. When the season passes, remove the pillow pillowcase and put it a way, without a pillow inside it should be easy enough to find room for it.

​How to make it?
​Measure the pillow you're going to cover. Use a soft measuring tape and measure the length and width of the pillow. Do NOT pull tight we need to full robust measurements, not the suck in your gut size.

            Length:   ___________            Width: ____________

​           Cut a piece of batting the width of the pillow and 2 1/2" times the length.
​           Cut a piece of holiday fabric 1" wider than the pillow and 3 times the length.

​Center the fabric, right side up, on the batting. The fabric will extend beyond the edges of the batting, fold the fabric over the edge of the fabric. Top stitch along the fold and the raw edge of the fabric (through the batting). Repeat for both ends.

​Find the center of the fabric/batting strip and mark the size of the pillow on the fabric (water soluble or air erasable marking tool is best), centered on the strip. Fold the fabric/batting on the marked lines bringing the right sides together.

​Sew the side seams catching all of the raw edges and batting in the seams. Use a 1/2" seam allowance. Once the seam is complete use a zig zag or overcasting stitch to sew the raw edges together and compress them to reduce the seam bulk.

​Turn right side out through the opening and remove any markings from the fabric. Add a button and buttonhole if desired. The batting will give thickness to the case, put your pillow inside and start on the next one. If you have a couple of  pillow forms you can make a selection of seasonal cases that you can swap out with the rest of your holiday decorations.

Alternatives
​You can add an applique, button or other embellishment to the front of the pillow before folding it and sewing the side seams.

​Use a couple of "frog" closures for a decorative effect instead of a button.

​If you want an invisible closure, add Velcro to the folded edges of the fabric that make up the flaps. Sew one side to the inside of one flap (this will be the exterior flap) and line-up and sew the other half to the other flap. As long as the exterior stitch lines do not go through all layers the stitching and Velcro will not be visible when you fold over the end and finish the flaps.

​How about placing a tassel into the four corners before sewing up the side seams.

​Have fun. Find the perfect holiday fabric and whip up a few pillows. Remember those great panels you bought a while back and never used. Well here is your chance to show them off!

Lately we've been on a clock bender. Why? Well simply put they are fun and easy to make. We all have lots of left over blocks or fabrics from past projects. Not big enough for a new project, but more than large enough for a clock. The hardware is inexpensive, and the creation of them is quite satisfying.

You can make a clock out of pretty much anything. we've been using stretched canvas frames, but a frisbee works just as well. You just take your fabric, layer it over a piece of batting (makes it look more finished, especially if it is pieced) and stretch it over the frame. If you don't mind making an eyelet or small button hole, putting one dead center through the fabric and batting makes for a cleaner finish.

To attach the fabric to the frame you can simply staple it to a canvas frame, or make darts in the corners so it lies flat at the corners and put a drawstring around the edge to pull it taut. The make a hole in the middle and assemble the hardware. Depending upon what you use to hold the fabric you may find a need to stabilize the clock hardware, the weight can cause a canvas to sag in the center. Consider cutting a piece of foam board to fit tightly into the back of your "frame". Mark the placement of the clock mechanism and cut a hole in the foam board to go around the hardware. Push the foam board into the back of the frame so it holds the hardware in place. 

All told, if you already have the fabric in mind that you want to use, you can have a fantastic clock for yourself, or for a gift, in just minutes.
​

The FINAL ​question is: (12/24-26)

What was the first BERNINA to support the Bernina Stitch Regulator (BSR)?
                      A)  Aurora                 B) Artista                      C) Activa

Enter your answer in the comments below, reply to our question post on Facebook or email your answer to Anniversary@waysidesewing.com.

On 27th we'll make a list of all correct answers and draw the winner. You'll be able to pick up your prize, if you win, at Wayside Sewing any time before January 1, 2018.